Umbria’s Treasures – A Globus Tour 23-30 September, 2012
When we were in Assisi in 2010 for only one night as Part of The Best of Italy Trafalgar Tour, I felt a special affinity with the place and wanted the opportunity to spend more time there to absorb and understand its special significance and ambience. In 2010 the first sentence I wrote in my journal when we arrived in Assisi was: “I have come Home!” Now we are returning to ‘Home’ to experience the peace and history of the environs.
“May the Journey continue
And
My Path be blessed ...”
I also thought I needed a special journal for this. It looks like an old hand tooled, leather-bound book and I love the ‘Magen David’ outlined in the middle of the cover as I was particularly moved by the Stars of David lining the walls of the chapel dedicated to Mary in the Basilica when we were there in 2010.
“Stand by the Roads, and look,
And ask for the ancient paths
Where the Good Way is, and walk it,
And find rest for your Soul.”
Jer. 6:16
Sunday 23 September
Our TD, Concetta, met us at the bus and welcomed us – “Now our family is complete!” she exclaimed.
We only had about 25 minutes to sort ourselves out before the meeting. 31 people – 33 if you include Concetta & Fabio. We then went out to a very nice upstairs Trattoria and had a very good Italian 4 course meal with red wine. We were serenaded by a flautist and a guitarist who sang all the popular songs and got all of us singing and clapping along. Later, a gorgeous young Italian man gave each woman in the group a white rose and a kiss on the cheek! I think he was one of the waiters/bar staff.
Some of us then went on our first optional, seeing Roma by Night. We stopped first at the Trevi fountain and yes, we both threw a coin in again! The Roman Forum at night was a special view as was the piazza that Michelangelo designed - Piazza del Campidoglio.
Our Hotel is near the Colosseum or Flavian Amphitheatre and we saw it as we came in from the airport. Jean, who was in the bus with us and hadn’t seen it before, was awe-inspired. I had forgotten how big it is. Lit up at night it is very beautiful, both from afar and close up. A wonderful start to our Italian experience.
Eddie was very tired by the time we returned but I was/am ‘wired’ – this has given me energy and inspiration. I had a quick, cooling shower and will now read for a little. It is now 10:20pm and we have to wake at 6:30am.
Monday, 24 September – Hotel Giotto Assisi
Our Room, 512 is named Stella Room! Bodes well for an Astrologer!
We have ‘our’ view! Not quite the same as before but almost. I’m sitting on a nice blue brocade easy chair by the open window and just before the bells of the Chiesa just below rang – doubly divine!!
Before arriving here, we had a bus trip around Roma for a little, and then we went to St Peter’s Basilica and saw Michelangelo’s Pieta once again. Its still magnificent!
*The bells are ringing again for 6pm.*
After St Peter’s we said ‘ciao’ to Christina, our local guide, and headed to Orvieto. An amazing church with a wonderful mosaic tiles façade, with charcoal and stone coloured striped walls at the sides and the same inside on beautiful pillars. No photos allowed inside so we just admired. In a little side chapel we saw amazing paintings depicting rebirth, resurrection, damnation – some quite macabre and graphic, painted by Luca Signorelli and probably based on Dante’s Inferno.
We had due Panini and succo d’arancia. We asked for Arancia Rossa (blood orange, which I loved in 2010) but they did not have any.
There were lots of shops with ceramics so we perused several and I finally found a nice small jug.
We had to go up to the town in a little funicular train/tram, and then minibus to get to the top, and reverse on the way down.
Then 1.25 hrs by coach, then we saw Assisi up on the on its hill, My heart and soul leapt to see it!
Now we are waiting for our cases so we can change for dinner.
I have definitely come Home!
Tuesday 25 September
8:30am.
Woke up just before the alarm, to the sound of roosters crowing! I opened the windows and still pre-dawn with lights on down in the valley.
About 15 minutes later I heard the bells of Santa Maria Degli Angeli ringing out the dawn 15 minutes after that ‘our’ bells rang. Gorgeous!
As we don’t leave for the Basilica until 8:45am we had a leisurely breakfast, overlooking the Valley. A lovely sunny day, expecting 24C. We are going to have a great day.
All my emails that had ‘disappeared’ at the previous Hotel came back, and wifi, for now, is free.
4:00pm
We are back from a very good and interesting day, for a rest, before we go to Spello for dinner.
The visit to the Upper and Lower Basilica was amazing. As we walked in the main doors a Mass was just finishing and the people stood and sang a hymn, singing the word ‘Alleluia’ several times – it was beautiful and set the scene for our visit.
We went downstairs to see San Francesco’s Tomb. There was a Mass in progress so we couldn’t go close, but we saw it up above the altar. I bought a candle to dedicate to San Francesco.
We did not see the Chapel of Santa Maria. Hopefully we will have time to walk up by ourselves to see it another time. The Basilica is a very peaceful place.
Next, we went by coach down to the Valley to see Santa Maria Degli Angeli. The Basilica (also Papal, as is San Francesco) It was built to house the small Chapel that he used to live in and died – the Porziuncola 9th century. 
The Basilica was built between 1569-1679. A large white soaring ceiling and sunlight through side windows, highlight the wee chapel - a very, cool, calm place. It had statues in niches and some large paintings for decoration but the cool, calm, soft white was the overriding vision and feeling.
We then went back up to Assisi to the right-hand side – the Basilica is on the left hand side as you
look up to Assisi from the valley below.
Santa Chiara church is made of a beautiful soft pinkish limestone that comes from the mountain – Monte Subasio - that Assisi is built upon. A gentle, feminine church.
We had free time and lunch break so Eddie and I walked to the main Piazza and had a nice caffe latte and shared a pizza. We then visited the church that used to be the Roman Temple of Minerva. A very simple church dedicated to Santa Maria Supra Minerva (above Minerva). In the foyer, I noticed a poster advertising Yom Kippur. I like the way the Italians do not exclude other faiths, nor the history of the place, but build on to what’s been there before and acknowledge the older edifice.
In the passageway at Santa Maria Degli Angeli, leading to the Rose Garden, there was a tiled tablet with the name St Francis, then repeated underneath in Arabic and Hebrew – a very nice touch I thought.
We wandered the shops and I found a nice olive wood Tau Cross - his favoured symbol - and a wee statue of St Francis taming the wolf. It is said this happened in Gubbio where we will go tomorrow. In reading about St Francis prior to our travels, I learnt that the Tau is the last letter of the Hebrew Alefbet and in Kabbalah it is the symbol of Spiritual Learning. It is the 22nd and final letter (in Tarot it is The Universe) symbolising that our lives are a cycle which, when it has been completed, marks another phase in the journey of our Souls.
At 1:15pm we met up with the group at St Clare’s, and were taken by minibuses (maxi-taxis) to The Hermitage, Carceri, where Francis used to come to pray and meditate.
We visited his small, underground cave or grotto – even smaller and narrower than the cave St Emilion, in France, lived in. Both had a small, flat rock for sleeping.
Beautiful views over the valley. In Francis’ day it would have been all woods. The tree where legend has it, he preached to the Birds, is in the grounds of the hermitage that was built around and over this Holy site.
After the hermitage, we went to San Damian’s, now a Chapel and Nunnery. In St Francis time it was a church a bad repair. Apparently, when he was in there praying in front of the cross ( which is now in Santa Chiara) Christ ‘spoke’ to him, telling Francis to ‘repair my Church’. He then sold goods and clothes of his Father’s and gave the money to the Priest but he refused it. So at night Francis sneaked back and threw the money through the window. This is now boarded up as they built on that side, but inside the wee church – very simple, very old, - you can see the window niche.
We went upstairs to see where St Clare (Santa Chiara) used to sleep in a simple dormitory with the other sister, and where she died.
There is a beautiful small enclosed garden in the cloister. I took several photos. You are not allowed to take photos inside which I consider quite appropriate, but I would like to have taken a photo of the garden from the dormitory above when I first saw it! I was enchanted.
The whole day has been very spiritual and inspirational. I do not follow any particular religion, but I have Jewish ancestry, and my children call me The Witch as I use natural herbal remedies and follow astrology, but for some reason I find the stories and persona of San Francesco very special, as is Assisi.
We were driven back down by the taxis to our Hotel. After a short rest, Eddie and I took off to find a gelato, and to shop for an owl. Last time we were here there were owls everywhere but now the shops stock more San Francesco and Santa Chiara statues, and not so many owls. However, I found a nice wee one in a little corner shop just down from the Hotel.
However, no gelati, so we walked up toward the main Piazza. Quite steep, but we went ‘piano, piano’, and before we reached the piazza we found a shop. We then walked slowly back, enjoying our gelati and absorbing the old houses and cobbled street. I took photos of a place that has wrought iron dragons outside. Don’t know what the place was/is, nor the significance of the dragons but they were different and unusual.
When we got back to the Hotel we discovered we could have got gelati at the bar! However, we had a nice walk through the streets and absorbed the atmosphere of Assisi. Apparently there are only 1,000 permanent residents. The rest live down in the valley and come up to their shops during the day.
Santa Maria Degli Angeli has just started ringing but very faint, as the breeze is blowing from the East to West, while she is to the South.
Our guide for the day was Maura and she was very good. We have her again when we go to Spoleto.
Dinner was in the hill Town of Spello. Very quiet at that time of the day. I sat with a woman who reminds me so much of one of my first cousins, in looks as well as mannerisms, it’s fascinating to talk with her but I have to remember not to call her by my cousins name!
Wednesday 26 September
First we went high above the town, after first picking up the guide in the square where 40 townspeople were shot by the Germans during WWII because the partisans in the hills had killed two German soldiers.
The Basilica of San Ubaldo was a very remote, silent building with a nice, quiet cloister. It holds the body of the Saint himself who was a Bishop of the town and saved the town by talking with Barbarossa, who then decided to withdraw his troops and not attack the town. Barbarossa (Redbeard) was made Holy Roman Emperor in 1155. He was also named King of Italy and Germany. He was later also crowned King of Burgundy.
The Basilica has been renovated in the 18C and has nice soft cream and yellow plaster walls with only a few paintings. Nice stained glass windows depict Ubaldo standing in front of, and preaching to, Barbarossa’s soldiers.
We also saw the three giant ‘candlesticks’ – Ceri – that they ‘race’ up the hill from Piazza Grande 15 May each year. The one representing Ubaldo always ‘wins’! these Ceri are about 4 metres tall and weigh 280kgs. Several men in festive costume have to hold the handles on the sides as they run up to the Basilica.
We had the choice of going back down to the town with our coach or going in a gondola basket - And that’s exactly what is was! A mesh basket only big enough to hold 2 people and the line does not stop. You have to leap in, the operator slams the door and you’re off! Even more difficult to get off apparently. I certainly did not want to go because of my fear of height, but also I did not like the idea of trying to get on and off so quickly with my dodgy hip and leg.
*San Pietro – ‘our’ bell tower – is ringing again. Always seems to ring around 5:45pm.*
To continue ....
Back in town we gathered in the Piazza Grande and then, after seeing the fountain and running around it 3 times with our hand trailing in the water, we could buy our “Certificates of Madness”! Printed on thin leather – lambskin. As we were never likely to be here again we thought it was worth it. (they have a space to neatly write in the ‘mad’ person’s name. When we got back home our eldest daughter who is a very good calligraphy artist, wrote our names on them in ancient script so they look truly authentic.)
The guide showed us an interesting architectrural feature of many of the houses. beside the main door is a smaller, narrower door. this was apparently for taking the dead out as it was concidered unlucky to take them out by the main door. 
We then had free time for lunch and shopping and/or sight seeing. We bought an owl with a horseshoe for our horse-mad daughter and a wall plaque of Francis and the Wolf for our wall at home. Then it was back to Assisi.
A short rest and Eddie and I walked up to the Basilica. We found the chapel dedicated to Mary with the Magen David design all over the wall. Then we tried to find the shop that advertises its silver jewellery in a cabinet in the Hotel foyer, but we did not find it. So, we came back to the Hotel and asked the girl on reception. She spoke very good English and showed us on a map. We had not walked far enough along the Via San Francesco. We went back again (10 -15 minute walk) and found it! Very nice young man. He put the pendant we chose in a cute box and bag along with a guarantee that it was sterling silver (I always wear silver or white gold), and a little description of the meaning of the Tau. I have now put it on after my shower. (and its now my favourite go-to pendant when I wear low cut tops or open shirt.)
When we got back, we were hot and thirsty so we asked at the bar what juices they had – and they had my favourite – Arancia Rossa!! A nice tall glass with ice, out on the balcony. The sun was behind a cloud but rays – ‘Fingers of God’ – were shining down on the valley below and highlighting Santa Maria Degli Angeli – a very special sight! So mystical and peaceful, but also majestic and uplifting.
We were taken by taxis up to the main Piazza for dinner. A little restaurant tucked down and around a side street. We sat with Sue – a young redhead, two other kiwis and Antonio – a brash New Yorker, although we found out later he was Canadian but has a green card and lived in NY for 30 years. He was helpful earlier in the day with his command of Italian, but he was rather cynical and negative at dinner. After several oppositions to whatever we were talking about, little, thin Sue ‘offered’ to arm-wrestle him to conclude the argument! This caused all within hearing to laugh and we quickly moved on to other subjects. However, later, when I asked Sue what it was like to be in NY in 9/11, he chipped in and started raving about a Mosque being built near the site and that should never be allowed! When I suggested that not all Muslims are terrorists, he shouts me down – ‘You don’t live there, I do! It affect MY life not yours!!’ Eddie then asked him to let it go, to chill out. He obviously didn’t like that because when we were leaving he apparently told the waiter? Concetta? That the people at our end of the table did not like the food! We assured Concetta that we loved it – couldn’t eat all of the five courses but what we did eat we enjoyed and the wine was very good also.
Thursday 27 September
‘Jewels of Tuscany’ option today. It threatened rain when we set off and forecast said 50% chance of rain so we took our coats and umbrella but sky did clear and we did not need rain gear.
Montepulciano was first up. We met the guide at the Tempio di San Biagio. I did not take photos again as I already had taken several when we were here in 2010. Our guide, Matteo, was young but fat and smoked all the time. I had to keep upwind of him.
We then took the coach to parking near the Porta Della Farine and trudged up to the Piazza Grande.
Eddie and I checked out Il Riccio and I took a photos of him standing by the outer front door.
We were shown into the Duomo. I had told one of the single travellers that I thought the Duomo was sad and gloomy last time we were here – and it still is. She agreed that it was the darkest one we’d been to see. It was very hard to see the paintings and they looked like they needed a good clean. I liked one little painting of Madonna and child with reddish hair. I looked it up on Google later and found that it had been painted by Sano di Pietro 1406-81. Different from many of the paintings of the same subject , Mary looks very serene but sad too, and I liked the fact that the baby looked more baby-like than in many other paintings.
Matteo then took us all to the wine cellars that were under the Palazzo that we had visited when we went to a music concert in 2010. Large barrels on display and it was interesting hearing how they barrelled it and for how long. He told us that the wine is drinkable after 2.5years. Eddie and I had been told before that Nobile cannot be opened until 8 -9 years. The wine tasting proved this. We were only given a taste of one wine bottled in 2010 and it definitely wasn’t Nobile, nor as good as some of the wines we have been given with our dinners! I would have expected that we would have been given a sample of Nobile seeing as this is what the area is renowned for!
He then led us down to the lower town, near the bell with Punchinello who rings it on the hour. This would be our meeting place to return to the coach.
The it was lunch and free time. Eddie and I decided to go and eat at the Cafe Poliziano as they would have a nice nobile – and they did! A couple of the solo travellers came with us and we sat together. We had a panino each – actually an untoasted sandwich – but very tasty, along with a glass of their beautiful Nobile.
We decided not to go back to see if their winery outlet had now opened. Too much hassle trying to find room to safely stow bottles of wine, so we just savoured the one glass and will hold it in our memory.
On the way out of the cafe, I turned the ‘wrong way’ by mistake but it wasn’t wrong because just passed the cafe was a leather shop with lovely bags. Concetta was in there trying to decide on a scarf for a friend and asked for our help. I then saw these nice shoulder bags with ‘Nobile’ and ‘Made In Italy’ embossed onto the flap. Eddie thought a nice blue one was a very nice bag, so we bought it!
We wandered back the ‘right’ way to our meeting spot and had a look in the Chiesa nearby. Simple and light, much nicer than the Duomo.
Then , back to the coach and on to Pienza. We did not have a guide there but were just ‘let loose’ to explore on our own. We went to the wall of the town and took some photos of the countryside. Also had a look in their Duomo. Much grander and imposing, but very beautiful with decorated ceilings and support arches. This town was the birthplace of Pius ii (Pio ii) 1405 – 1464, so obviously, as a Pope, he had to have an impressive Duomo, and town. He refurbished his town, Corsignano, and renamed it Pienza after himself.
We did not buy any cheese this time, nor a toy sheep, but we did have a nice gelato.
It was nice driving back toward Assisi and seeing it on the side of Monte Subasio. Concetta pronounces it ‘a seize-zee’. Once again the sun shining through the clouds and ‘fingers of God’ over the mount and town. Just beautiful.
Tonight we dined at the Hotel. OK but not great. Sort of a lentil soup/stew for first course. I thought Eddie wouldn’t like it, as he hated the lentil lasagne that our vegetarian daughter used to bake, but this had a nice tasty, bacon-y sauce and he enjoyed it!
Only one more night here. I love Assisi and I’m going to record ‘my’ bells ringing (San Pietro).
